An early wheels-rolling call at 8:00 found us on our way to Versailles, the palace of palaces for the Louis’ and Marie’s ( 14, 15, and. 16th, aka Sun, Fun, and Done). But first we had a really delicious breakfast at our hotel with the best croissants we’ve had to date. Twice as small as the London ones but also twice as delicious! In honor of July 4 th, tiny American flags were put out with some of the food.

Before heading out of town, the bus ride took us down the Champs-Élysées (which translates to “Elysian fields”) to see the Arc de Triomphe and other sights. Our Paris guide, Sylvie was excellent, and being fairly young, had no trouble keeping us entertained on the ride out to Versailles with stories of varying slightly sexual, slightly risqué and more than slightly gross, especially when it came to describing the body functions and ailments of the kings. The kids loved it! ( Well, ok, we did too😂).

Versailles, as we remembered so well, is gaudy, crowded, and yet oh so over-the-top spectacular. The hall of mirrors, in all its gilded splendor, the bedchambers, receiving rooms and dressing rooms of the kings and queens have been well taken care of. And we loved looking up at the ceilings!

The gardens are also beautiful, although at this time of year, not as many colorful flowers as we had hoped. But great family photo opportunities.

Then off to another highlight— a trip to the Eiffel Tower and lunch at Madame Brasserie on the first level which is still up pretty high, maybe the equivalent of six or seven stories. The elevator ride up to this level was pretty interesting with the two- level funicular -like elevator cramming in about 15-20 people in each section.

Lunch was very good with top notch service, and the experience of being right there was up there on everyone’s bucket list. Jim and I had not had a chance to do this on our previous Paris trips. And Stella was happy for the chance to sit with her friends for both lunch and bus time!

We got back to our hotel late in the afternoon and had free time. I had hit the proverbial wall that day, so I was happy to rest. Since Stella had made plans to hang out in the spacious lobby of the hotel that evening, we took the opportunity to go do something very grown up and fun.

Marc had mentioned to us that the legendary “Bar Hemingway” located inside the Ritz Hotel was quite nearby. This is a VERY intimate (just 25 seats) dark-wood paneled room that, it is said, Ernest Hemingway “liberated” from the Nazis in 1944 and then became a regular fixture. (It is also claimed that he downed a record 50 martinis here in one night!!!)

We walked over there and enjoyed by far the most expensive drinks we’ve ever had. You do pay for the experience—exquisite, highly original cocktails, a very quiet atmosphere with tiny tables, upholstered chairs and love seats back to back, Hemingway magazine covers and other memorabilia on the walls, including a large swordfish, captain’s wheel, photographs and the like. Add the people watching, the most professional bar and wait staff, as well as the unusual and quite wonderful drinks, and you have special evening to remember. It was like stepping back into the 1940’s. A special Parisian memory…

Today was mostly a travel day— we took the Eurostar train that travels under the English Channel to get to Paris.  Although many people refer to it as the “Chunnel”, neither the French nor the English like that term, so it is simply “the Eurostar”.  

The train station was at King’s Cross/St. Pancras— the exact same place we were at yesterday for Harry Potter. It was not only terribly busy, but also rather chaotic. But we managed to find the right line and actually boarded with plenty of time for an on-time departure. We were in the Premium section ( a Tauck advantage) and given a decent little lunch during the two- plus hour train ride.  Except for the ear popping as the 200+ mph train sped through different tunnels underground and through the water, it was a relaxing experience.

Arriving in Paris at Gare du Nord station was even more chaotic than boarding. And Paris traffic is even uglier and worse than London.

Due to an hour time change, the late afternoon time and rush hour, we didn’t arrive at our hotel, the Marriott Ambassador until nearly 5:30. It is centrally located in the Opera district ( Opera Garnier is right around the corner).

Our room is lovely, huge king bed and a very comfortable cot for Stella — an actual bed, not the typical lightweight rollaway. But we had little time to relax as we were headed out to Le Madeleine C restaurant for dinner. Despite written directions, it took us a little while to find it, all the while enjoying the walk past the Galleries Lafayette, a huge triple-building department store around the corner, several churches and window shopping (or in French faire du lèche-vitrines, which translates literally to “window licking”) at other stores along the way.

Dinner was good— I had escargots which are made and served differently than we are used to, tiny, with butter and some pasty green sauce in a round dish, but still delicious, and Jim and I both enjoyed our veal chops.

We decided, along with other families, to walk down to the Tuileries Jardins where we could get a great view of the Eiffel Tower lit up and sparkling at night.  It does so after dark and on the hour for 5 minutes.  We were also hoping to see the Olympic balloon that held the lit torch in last year’s Olympics.  

We passed a death defying gravity ride in an amusement area that excited all the kids, and walked along until we had a decent view of the Tour Eiffel.  They are getting the Place de la Concorde ( which we were above) ready for both a huge parade on Bastille Day ( July 14) and the end of the Tour de France so there were stands, coverings and other equipment all around the area.

It turned out it was still too light at 10 pm so no sparkles.  On the way back, we passed the balloon, lit on the bottom ( now electrically) and ready to rise a bit off the ground.

We walked home, pretty much the same way we came but a little change of direction near the end.  We passed an unusual site— what I think was a Jewish orthodox night club or some kind of reception where young people were celebrating enthusiastically.  Paris at night is a lively place!